Post Ivan Trip Report

November 6, 2004

Hi My Negril Friends!!

I spent 10 great days in Negril 10/8 thru 10/18.

It was so soon after Hurricane Ivan I wasn’t sure what to expect. BUT since the tickets were non-refundable, and my PNS was peaking, to Banana Shout we went!

Getting into Mobay at noon-ish, I had mixed emotions as I went from the plane, thru the new jet way, and into the terminal. A favorite part of previous trips was the first blast of fragrant Jamaican air after 3 hours on a stuffy plane.

I waited for the JUTA bus to Negril outside and downed my first 2 Red Stripes, aahhh it was great to be back.

After a quick ride to Negril with a bunch of Hedonism people (always interesting), I began to survey the storm damage along the beach. The all-inclusive end seemed untouched and the lower beach was open for business, as open as it ever is in October. Heading into the West End the damage was more evident. Roofs missing, trees and plants bare and a lot of building damage.

When we got to Banana Shout the place a buzz with activity!! Ivan had hit this place hard, but the owners and the workers were hitting back!

Mark, Ann Marie, and Alex were there to greet me. They showed me to my cottage and gave me the nickel tour. This place was GREAT!! We were in “Seaside 1″, a 2 floor cottage with 1 bathroom, 4 beds, 2 hammocks, a big refrigerator and a kitchenette - AWESOME. The kicker was the veranda on the second floor that gave me the best view of the Negril sunset I have seen on all my trips to Negril!! ALSO, the entire place inside and out had been repainted since the storm. My buddy Nick arrived Monday 10/11 and we were the first guests to stay at the “New and Improved” Banana Shout.

Ivan slammed the area. He took a big chunk of seawall, 2 entire cottages and most of the garden. Rick’s Cafe to the south and Catch a Falling Star and Tensing Pen to the north were still closed and the damage was quite evident. By contrast it made what had been done already at “The Shout” very clear. Mark had up to 5 crews working to get the place back in order for the winter season.

It was amazing to see the place come back to life! The 2 cottages were 80% rebuilt, the new seawall was completed a few days after we arrived and over the 10 day stay you could actually see the hundreds of new plants take hold in their new home, and all the remaining trees sprouting new leaves and branches.

I love Negril most for the amazing energy that fills you up as you stare out on the ocean, or interact with the people; it washes away the negative vibes of the rat race we all come here to escape. The entire West End was alive, but in a different way than I’d seen before. It was people rebuilding, happily. People who understand so deeply, all that the ocean brings to them and how she can rise up and take it back. To some it may have looked like hundreds of people working from sun up to sundown repairing a broken town, but I saw hundreds of people building a new future for themselves and their families. The vibe was upbeat and positive. Ya Mon!!

To celebrate the rebuilding of Banana Shout and to show respect to nature and the sea, Mark decided to follow the Jamaican tradition of killing a goat. Now killing a goat is a very significant event, trying to explain that to people in the US was close to impossible. The mannish water and the curried goat that night was the best meal of the vacation and one of the best I ever had! Nick and I both considered it an honor to be a part of the event, something I will never forget.

I can’t say enough about Banana Shout except that I will be back.

The West end was up and running fine, we had several meals at LTU, (Rick’s will be closed till Feb ‘06). We had breakfast most mornings at Sips & Bites, wonderful Jamaican Breakfast!! We did Selina’s for Sunday Brunch with the Cowboy and The Negril.com Webcast the food was great and I have 2 pounds of Big Roy’s coffee on the way. Had 2 dinners at 3 Dives and Lunch at Chicken Lavish. There were so few people in town, that the service was great and people really appreciated us being there and not canceling. Even the higglers, sellers and most cabbies were more mellow than usual.

Ann Marie the housekeeper at Banana Shout cooked some of our best meals, we’d chip in a few bucks (very few) and get delicious home cooked meals right in our cottage. We even enjoyed fresh caught fish from the fisherman that plied the local waters every day. There was a little grocery store (in Philly it would be called a Bodega) where we could get coffee, Ting, Red Stripe and the like for ridiculously low prices.

We had many adventures. Nick’s first night we hit Tedds. We hung out with Sexy Rexy at his place near the Lighthouse. We made friends with Clive a great driver and tour guide. He took care of all out needs and had an amazing way of somehow showing up where and when you need a ride. I think he’s psychic! Look him up!! His van is the cleanest in Negril!

I’m sure I’m missing things and people, but I was a little impaired most of the week :)

Thanks again to all the people of Negril, all you boardies who gave me so much good advice, to the Conklins, Ilene, Mark and the staff of Banana Shout for a truly great time!!

Take care and long live Negril!!

- Vinny from Philly

Filed under: Negril, Writing


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